Amplifier models list

Below is a list of the amp types in the Axe-Fx II and amps they are based on. Have fun, Yek.

• Amp icons provided by forum member SynFactory (source).
• Go here to see a list of all stock cabinets mentioned below.
• OwnHammer H75 is similar to a G12 Heritage 30w. OwnHammer M75 is similar to a 25w G12M (greenback).
• Amp Quick Reference Guide

59 Bassguy ('59 Fender Bassman)

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1. Based on: 1959 Fender Bassman, a low-to-medium gain amp designed for bass but more widely adopted by guitarists. 5F6-A circuit, normal and bright channel, Tweed era, 4x10" Jensen or Eminence speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #32, #33
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. It's not strange to distort a Fender when using humbuckers. Turn down Drive and/or Master Volume
6. Try a Treble Booster before the amp
7. Fender website
8. Wikipedia
9. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source

65 Bassguy ('65 Fender Bassman)

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1. Based on: 1965 Fender Bassman, blackface version with a different circuit design (AB165), u4x10" Jensen or Eminence speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: #32, #33
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. It's not strange to distort a Fender when using humbuckers. Turn down Drive and/or Master Volume
6. Try a Treble Booster before the amp
7. Cliff: "Definitely not your father's Bassman. Has a pissed-off Marshall vibe to it" Source
8. Fender website
9. Wikipedia
10. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source "The 65 Bassguy has more gain than before. The 65 Bassguy was matched to a 65 Bassman that Dweezil sent me. It's a vicious amp that sounds more like a Plexi than a Fender. It's the infamous AB165 circuit which is very crunchy and bright and does not sound like your typical Fender. I was told it is stock. I did not take it apart to check. It sounds great so I modeled and matched it." Source

Vibrato Verb (Fender Vibroverb)

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1. Based on: Fender Vibroverb, a 40W combo that's great for clear or grinding cleans and gutsy blues. 6G16 circuit, normal and bright channel, Brownface era, 2x10" Oxford speakers or 1x15"
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #3, #8, #12, #18, #31
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Treble, no Master. The original amp has a “tapped” treble circuit, meaning that treble is “flat” at setting “5”. Cutting or boosting the treble was possible by turning the knob down (below 5) or up (above 5)
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. It's not strange to distort a Fender when using humbuckers. Turn down Drive and/or Master Volume
6. Fender website
7. Wikipedia
8. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source

Deluxe Verb (Fender Deluxe Reverb)

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1. Based on: '65 blackface Fender Deluxe Reverb, great, chimey tone with nice power amp breakup when you push the Master. AB763 circuit, 22W, normal and vibrato channel Vibrato channel is modeled, Source), Blackface era, 1x12" Jensen C12Q speaker, same preamp as Twin
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #5, #13, #14
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Treble, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain. Breakup starts with Drive at 3
5. It's not strange to distort a Fender when using humbuckers. Turn down Drive and/or Master Volume
6. Fender website
7. Wikipedia
8. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source

Double Verb (Fender Twin Reverb)

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1. Based on: Fender Twin Reverb. Known for amazing clean sounds and nice breakup. The Twin Reverb is considered a standard model for players seeking a clean sound. AB763 circuit, normal and vibrato channel (Vibrato channel is modeled), Blackface era, 100W, 2x12 Jensen" C12N, JBL D120, Oxford 12T6 or EVM-12L speakers, same preamp as the Deluxe
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #6, #8, #12, #19, #21, #22
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Bright switch (works with Volume below 6, On by default), no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain. Breakup start with Drive at 3
5. It's not strange to distort a Fender when using humbuckers. Turn down Drive and/or Master Volume
6. Fender website
7. Wikipedia
8. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source

JR Blues (Fender Blues Junior)

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1. Based on: Fender Blues Jr., a gutsy little classic with dual EL84s. 15W, 1x12" Jensen C12N or P12R speaker
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #2, #22
3. Original controls: Bass, Middle, Treble, Gain, Volume, FAT boost
4. Fender website
5. Wikipedia
6. Use the JR Blues model with no Damping (no negative feedback) to get the tone of an Egnater Rebel 20
7. Cliff (Firmware 6): "The taper changed dramatically. The tapers now match the actual amp. Most of the Fender tapers were Log10A and are now Log30A." Source

Class-A 15W TB (Vox AC-15 Top Boost)

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1. Based on: Vox AC-15. The heart of this amp’s tone comes from its power section and no negative feedback. 15W, EL84 tubes, 1x12" greenback
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #36, #37, #38, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Cut (Presence), Bass, Treble
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Vox website
6. Wikipedia
7. This amp has no negative feedback (Damping is 0), therefore Presence turns into a Hi-Cut control

Class-A 30W (Vox AC-30)

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1. Based on: Vox AC-30, a combo that dominated the British Invasion. Gritty character, warm tone, great feel. 30W, EL84 tubes, 2x12" greenbacks or Alnico Blue speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #7, #11, #15, #20, #24, #25, #36, #37, #38, #55, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Tone, no Master
4. For authentic tone: leave the tone controls at noon and use Hi-Cut/Presence to cut treble. Set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Try a Tonebender or Treble Booster (Drive block) before the amp
6. Vox website
7. Wikipedia
8. This amp has no negative feedback (Damping is 0), therefore Presence turns into a Hi-Cut control

Class-A 30W TB (Vox AC-30 Top Boost)

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1. Based on: Vox AC-30 TBX (Topboost), created in response to demand for "More treble". Great highs and slightly reduced bass. 30W, EL84 tubes, 2x12" greenbacks or Alnico Blue speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see Class-A 30W
3. Original controls: Volume, Cut (Presence), Bass, Treble
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Instead of turning up Drive, try boosting the input signal before the amp, for example with a Tape Dist or FET Boost
6. Vox website
7. Wikipedia
8. Wikipedia: "The "Top Boost" (or "Brilliance") feature was Vox's optional addition of a circuit that introduced an extra gain stage and tone controls for bass and treble (as opposed to the single "tone" control of early AC30s)"
9. This amp has no negative feedback (Damping is 0), therefore Presence turns into a Hi-Cut control

Brit JM45 (Marshall JTM45)

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1. Based on: channel 1 (High Treble, Source) of the Marshall JTM45, made famous by Clapton and others; actually a modified Bassman design. 45W, 12" greenbacks or G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #16, #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #57, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, no Master
4. For authentic tone: keep Bass low, set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Try a Tonebender or Treble Booster (Drive block) before the amp
6. Try diming all tone controls (except Bass), Master and Drive
7. Marshall website
8. Wikipedia

Plexi Normal / Treble (Marshall Super Lead 1959)

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1. Based on: Marshall Super Lead 1959, the classic amp head that gave rise to “the stack”. Great for crunchy rhythm work. Normal": normal channel. Treble: “High Treble” channel. 12" greenbacks or G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #16, #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #57, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, no Master, Presence
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain. It doesn't hurt to crank all tone controls and Presence also
5. Marshall website
6. Wikipedia
7. Cliff: "The Plexi Normal has no treble peaker that's why it's bassy. FWIW, the Plexi Normal channel sounds identical to my reference amp which is a particularly good copy." Source
8. Cliff (about the Plexi model in the Standard/Ultra): "One of the first mods people make to real 'Plexi' Marshalls is to "clip the bright cap". The bright cap varied over the years, supposedly depending on what was lying around in the shop. The model defaults to the bright cap in the circuit. If you turn off Bright you're effectively clipping the bright cap. The bright cap in Marshalls can be very bright and harsh. However, if you crank the Master you might find the extra brightness helps compensate for the power amp getting darker."
9. Cliff (about the fizzyness of the Plexi model): "It's the way a Plexi is supposed to sound. That's due to the cathode follower. That raspiness helps it cut through in a mix. I own three of them and they are that fizzy" Source
10. Javajunkie's tips for turning the Plexi into the Standard/Ultra Plexi2 sim: Damp = 4.76; Bright Cap = .22; Xformer High = 14965; Hhi Freq Res and Low Freq Res = 5; Pres Freq = 1200hz; Tone Location = Post; Sag = 2.01
11. Cliff: "Don't be afraid to turn the bass all the way down or the treble all the way up. Just like with the actual amp. For example, on the normal channel of a Plexi, most people turn the bass way down. Otherwise it's too flubby." Source

1987X Normal / Treble (Marshall 1987x Vintage Series)

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1. Based on: Marshall 1987x Vintage Series, features what many consider to be an “essential” mod to the tonestack of this Plexi. Normal: Normal channel. Treble: Treble channel. 50w reissue of the 60's Marshall 1959SLP. 12" greenbacks or G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #16, #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #57, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Bass, Middle, Treble, Volume, Presence, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain. It doesn't hurt to crank all tone controls and Presence
5. Original manual
6. Marshall website
7. Wikipedia
8. Discussion about the Bright Cap on the 1987x

Brit 800 (Marshall JCM800 2204)

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1. Based on: Marshall JCM800, the vaunted model 2204. Bring the Master up for true 80's tone. 12" greenbacks, V30 or T75 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #39, #41, #47, #48, #50, #51, #52, #53, #57, #58, #59, #60, #61, #62, #63
3. Original controls: Gain, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Volume
4. Marshall website
5. Wikipedia
6. Try a TS808 or Tube Drive block before the amp (set the Drive block to minimal Drive and full Level)
7. Cliff: "It is a very bright model. However, it sounds exactly like the amp it was based on. If it is too bright, you can adjust the various tone controls and parameters to reduce the brightness to your tastes. They are designed to be run loud and the brightness decreases as the MV is increased. The sound of 80's hair metal for sure." Source
8. User comments
9. Use the Saturation parameter to emulate the famous "Jose Arredondo mod" on the JCM800. Cliff: "The saturation switch switches in a zener diode clipping stage right before the tone stack. This is the "Arrendondo Mod"." Source
10. Cliff: "Rips my head off here. I have to turn the presence way down. Check the MV. Too high and will get muddy." Source

Brit 800 Mod (modded Marshall JCM800)

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1. Based on: Marshall JCM800, with a handful of popular modifications. Used with 12" greenbacks, V30 or T75 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see Brit 800
3. Original controls: see Brit 800
4. Cliff: "The JCM800 MOD is not a Jose Arrendodo-modded Marshall model. The JCM800 Mod is a JCM800 with a handful of popular modifications." Source

HiPower Normal / Brilliant (Hiwatt DR103)

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1. Based on: Hiwatt DR103, medium-gain, full sound amp with an unique tone-stack and a chimey, grinding tone. Normal: normal channel. Brillnt: brighter model based on the amp’s "Brilliant" channel. 100w, 12" Fane speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #42
3. Original controls: Volume, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence
4. Hiwatt website
5. Wikipedia
6. Cliff: "I have a 1974 Hiwatt DR-103. The model is based on that. It is one of the Harry Joyce, Hylight era models. Still has the original tubes. Closet find and sounds glorious"

USA Clean 1 (Mesa Boogie Mark IV)

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1. Based on: Mesa Boogie Mark IV (Rhythm 1 channel). A somewhat neutral, clean-sounding model that can pushed into warm clipping. 12" Mesa C90 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: #8, #12, #43, #44, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass, Presence, Bright switch. Graphic Equalizer not modeled
4. Original manual
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia1 Wikipedia2
7. The graphic EQ on the real amp is positioned between the preamp and the power amp section. As such it can't be simulated exactly. See the Mother-of-all-pedal-and-effects-emulations thread for the EQ settings
8. Cliff: "The MK V is basically a compendium of previous Mesa amps. There may be minor differences in tone due to circuit layout but nothing a few tweaks to the EQ can't fix." Source
9. Cliff: "Increasing the trim isn't exactly the same as increasing the Lead Drive but it's so close that you shouldn't hear a difference. It isn't actually where the gain is applied that makes the difference. Both gains are early in the chain and well before any significant distortion is occurring. The reason the two controls behave different is that the Gain control has a bright cap across it while the Drive control does not. There is a slight Miller frequency dependence on the Drive control but it's insignificant. Therefore... you can treat the Input Trim as the Drive control." Source
10. Cliff: "Having owned multiple Mark IV's, multiple Triaxis's and a variety of other Boogie products, I can tell that the Mark series in general are a bitch to dial in. Once you figure them out though they are great amps. IMO, the key to a MKIV is to use the TMB to get the feel and the EQ to get the tone." Source

USA Clean 2 (Mesa Boogie Triaxis)

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1. Based on: Mesa Boogie Triaxis preamp (Green channel), “Vintage Fat Rhythm" (Mark I, Blackface) channel
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: #8, #12, #43, #44, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass, Presence, Bright switch. Graphic Equalizer not modeled
4. Mesa website
5. Wikipedia1 Wikipedia2
6. Cliff: "I used a Triaxis for, shoot, I dunno, over a decade before designing the Axe-Fx. I have two of them. So I'd say I'm pretty familiar with the tones. To my ears (and my measurement equipment), the Axe-Fx models are spot-on." Source
7. Cliff: "Increasing the trim isn't exactly the same as increasing the Lead Drive but it's so close that you shouldn't hear a difference. It isn't actually where the gain is applied that makes the difference. Both gains are early in the chain and well before any significant distortion is occurring. The reason the two controls behave different is that the Gain control has a bright cap across it while the Drive control does not. There is a slight Miller frequency dependence on the Drive control but it's insignificant. Therefore... you can treat the Input Trim as the Drive control." Source
8. Cliff: "Having owned multiple Mark IV's, multiple Triaxis's and a variety of other Boogie products, I can tell that the Mark series in general are a bitch to dial in. Once you figure them out though they are great amps. IMO, the key to a MKIV is to use the TMB to get the feel and the EQ to get the tone." Source

USA Rhy 1 (Mesa Boogie Mark IV)

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1. Based on: Mesa Boogie Mark IV (Rhythm 2 channel), THE California crunch rhythm sound. Rhythm Ch. 2 with “Fat” switch OFF. 12" Mesa C90 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: #8, #12, #43, #44, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass, Presence. Graphic Equalizer not modeled
4. Original manual
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia1 Wikipedia2
7. The graphic EQ on the real amp is positioned between the preamp and the power amp section. As such it can't be simulated exactly. See the Mother-of-all-pedal-and-effects-emulations thread for the EQ settings
8. Cliff: "The MK V is basically a compendium of previous Mesa amps. There may be minor differences in tone due to circuit layout but nothing a few tweaks to the EQ can't fix." Source
9. Cliff: "The MK IV and Triaxis models were modeled with the Lead Drive set to 5. Increasing the trim isn't exactly the same as increasing the Lead Drive but it's so close that you shouldn't hear a difference. It isn't actually where the gain is applied that makes the difference. Both gains are early in the chain and well before any significant distortion is occurring. The reason the two controls behave different is that the Gain control has a bright cap across it while the Drive control does not. There is a slight Miller frequency dependence on the Drive control but it's insignificant. Therefore... you can treat the Input Trim as the Drive control." Source
10. Cliff: "Having owned multiple Mark IV's, multiple Triaxis's and a variety of other Boogie products, I can tell that the Mark series in general are a bitch to dial in. Once you figure them out though they are great amps. IMO, the key to a MKIV is to use the TMB to get the feel and the EQ to get the tone." Source

USA IIC+ Norm / Bright (Mesa Boogie Mark IIC+)

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1. Based on: Mesa Boogie Mark IIC+ Lead, a US-made amp famous for its smooth overdrive sound with pull bright OFF / ON. 12" EVM 12L speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #8, #12
3. Original controls: Volume, Master, Bass, Mid, Treble, Presence, Bright switch pullout, Treble Shift. Graphic equalizer and Gain Boost not modeled
4. Original manual
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia1 Wikipedia2
7. The graphic EQ on the real amp is positioned between the preamp and the power amp section. As such it can't be simulated exactly. See the Mother-of-all-pedal-and-effects-emulations thread for the EQ settings
8. Cliff: "The Drive control on the Axe is your Volume 1 or whatever. if you want more Lead Drive, increase the trim." Source
9. Try the Skyline tonestack

USA Lead 1 / Lead 2 (Mesa Boogie Mark IV)

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1. Based on: Mesa Boogie Mark IV. Lead 1: this model has a tight, focused, hi-gain sound. Great for fusion and rock leads. Lead 2: Treble Shift gives this amp a slightly different character with a little more cut. 12" Mesa C90 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #8, #12, #43, #44, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Bright switch. Graphic Equalizer not modeled
4. Original manual
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia1 Wikipedia2
7. Treble Shift: this shifts the range of the Presence control to higher frequencies, it influences the treble control. In Lead 1 Treble Shift is off, which works well for recording. In Lead 2 Treble Shift is switched on, which works well within a band context, but can generate squealing and noise at high volume or gain levels
8. The graphic EQ on the real amp is positioned between the preamp and the power amp section. As such it can't be simulated exactly. See the Mother-of-all-pedal-and-effects-emulations thread for the EQ settings
9. Cliff: "The MK V is basically a compendium of previous Mesa amps. There may be minor differences in tone due to circuit layout but nothing a few tweaks to the EQ can't fix." Source
10. Cliff: "Increasing the trim isn't exactly the same as increasing the Lead Drive but it's so close that you shouldn't hear a difference. It isn't actually where the gain is applied that makes the difference. Both gains are early in the chain and well before any significant distortion is occurring. The reason the two controls behave different is that the Gain control has a bright cap across it while the Drive control does not. There is a slight Miller frequency dependence on the Drive control but it's insignificant. Therefore... you can treat the Input Trim as the Drive control." Source
11. Mid Gain on these models is off. The Lead 1+/2+ models have Mid Gain switched on (firmware 6)
12. Cliff: "The USA Lead models are matched to a MKIV. On the amp the Lead Drive was set to around 7. If you want more gain increase the Trim in the Adv page." Source
13. Cliff: "Having owned multiple Mark IV's, multiple Triaxis's and a variety of other Boogie products, I can tell that the Mark series in general are a bitch to dial in. Once you figure them out though they are great amps. IMO, the key to a MKIV is to use the TMB to get the feel and the EQ to get the tone." Source

Recto Orange / Red, Vintage / Modern (Mesa Boogie 2-channel Dual Rectifier)

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1. Based on: late model of Mesa Boogie's Dual Rectifier, a high-gain masterpiece with crushing power and tighness. Orange and Red channels, Vintage and Modern modes. 12" V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #43, #44
3. Original controls: Gain, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence on Orange, HiCut on Red
4. Original manual
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia
7. Cliff: "A Dual Rectifier's "Presence" control in the Modern modes is a high-cut. It's just called Presence. The model is correct but the operation of the control is reversed (for continuity with other models)." (Leaving Hi-Cut at zero is the same as turning Presence on the actual amp to 10) Source
8. The Recto models were replaced in firmware 6
9. Cliff: "Real Rectos are bassy/fizzy beasts but that tone works great for certain genres. Source

Euro Blue / Red (Bogner Ecstasy 20th Anniversary)

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1. Based on: Bogner Ecstasy, 20th Anniversary model. Blue: Blue channel with Boost and Structure OFF. Red: Red channel with Boost and Structure ON. 12" V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #47, #48, #51, #59, #63
3. Original controls: Gain, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Bright switches, Structure
4. Original manual
5. Bogner website
6. Wikipedia
7. The real amp (both channels) is quite dark without one of its bright switches engaged. Try the models with Bright on or set Presence at 5 or higher
8. To emulate the Ecstasy's Plexi mode: set tonestack to Plexi, set Bright Cap to 470 and engage Bright
9. The impact of the Bright switch will decrease as Drive is turned up

Shiver Clean / Lead (Bogner Shiva 20th Anniversary)

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1. Based on: Bogner Shiva Clean, 90W anniversary model. Clean = powerful shimmering cleans. Lead = a sweet, rich-sounding amp with aggressive, English-style midrange punch. KT88 tubes. 12" V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #47, #48, #51, #59, #63
3. Original controls for Clean channel: Bass, Treble, Volume, Master, Presence, Bright switch (less to none effective the higher Drive is set)
4. Original controls for Lead channel: Bass, Middle, Treble, Volume, Master, Presence, Bright switch (less effective the higher Drive is set but still noticeable)
5. Boost, Mode and Shift controls on the original amp are not modeled
6. Original manual
7. Bogner website
8. Wikipedia
9. The real amp (both channels) is quite dark without one of its bright switches engaged. Try the models with Bright on or with Presence at 5 or higher
10. Firmware 5: reworked Clean model

Euro Uber (Bogner Uberschall)

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1. Based on: Bogner Uberschall, the "High Gain" channel of this 120W head. Heavy grinding lows and insane gain. EL34 tubes. 12" V30 and G12T75 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #50, #51, #52, #63
3. Original controls: Gain, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence
4. Original manual
5. Bogner website
6. Wikipedia
7. Bogner: "One of the most unique items is our "Presence" control. It's an amazing combination of a midrange-presence control. As you sweep through its range you will notice an incredible variety of tones this one control allows. For an extremely aggressive sub-harmonic bass and scooped-midrange sound, keep the presence off or very low. A huge 3-dimensional tone can be found by running the presence around 2 o'clock. Pushing the "Presence" control to maximum will allow you to cut a sonic path through the mix by reinforcing your midrange and slightly rolling off the sub-bass. Trust us: REALLY check out the presence control to unleash the hidden secrets of the UBERSCHALL. The "Midrange" control is very interactive with all the other tone controls, you can go from a hollow scooped-mid setting to an aggressive in your face and on your throat kind of intensity. The "Bass" control allows almost a sub-harmonic low-end to be added, at high volumes be sure to keep the bass down a bit to keep your tone focused like a laser beam"

Solo 99 Clean (Soldano X99)

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1. Based on: the clean channel of a Soldano/Caswell midi-motorized Soldano X99 preamp
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #45, #46
3. Original controls: ...
4. Soldano website
5. Wikipedia

Solo 100 Rhy / Lead (Soldano SLO-100)

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1. Based on: Soldano SLO-100 (Super Lead Overdrive), noted for its hot-rod chrome chassis and aggressive rhythm tone. Rhy = Normal channel. Ld = based on the snarling lead channel. 100W. Used with 12" Eminence speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #45, #46
3. Original controls: Gain, Bass, Middle, Treble, Master, Presence, Bright switch only on normal channel
4. Soldano website
5. Wikipedia
6. Cliff: "The SLO-100 is the loudest amp I've ever used. It feels like there's a small nuclear explosion going off inside when ever you hit a power chord. It's a wicked amp but not something I would recommend for anything but large gigs. If you like the SLO-100 model you might want to try the Recto models too. It's not widely known but the Rectifier preamp is a derivative of the SLO-100. Some minor changes but the basic topology is identical"
7. Emulating Warren Hayes' tone
8. Cliff: "I have a really good SLO-100. An original black faceplate version. Pristine condition. That amp was one of the primary amps used in the G2 modeling development. It was by studying that and a really nice JCM-800 that I finally figured out the secret to cathode follower" Source
9. Cliff: "The G2 model is scary close to my "Blackface" SLO-100. Many people find SLOs too bright. The "Warren Haynes" mod is a popular mod to reduce the brightness" Source

Friedman BE / HBE (Friedman BE and HBE)

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1. Based on: Friedman amp by Dave Friedman of Rack Systems. BE: Brown Eye, what many call “the ultimate modded Plexi”. HBE: Hairy Brown Eye, the BE amp’s alternate voicing with a gain boost. A killer hi-gain tone in your arsenal. EL34, 50 or 100W. This amp was previously named "Marsha"
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #39, #41, #47, #48, #50, #51, #52, #57, #58, #59, #61, #62, #63, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence
4. Website
5. Try the Plexi tonestack for a different tone

PVH 6160 (Peavey 5150 II)

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1. Based on: Peavey EVH 5150 II, the high-input lead channel of an amp named after the criminally insane. Hi input, 6L6, 120W, 12" Sheffield 1200 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #49 or greenbacks
3. Original controls: pre- and post-Gain, Volume, Bass, Mid, Treble, Presence, Resonance, Bright switch (rhythm channel only)
4. Original manual
5. Peavey website
6. Wikipedia
7. Cliff: "The hi-input on the Lead channel is modelled. It has lots of gain. Even at noon it's already very saturated".
8. Cliff: "It's based on a 5150 II." Source
9. Firmware 6: "Re-matched PVH 6160 model against an original “block letter” EVH 5150"

MR Z 38 Sr (Dr. Z Maz 38 SR)

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1. Based on: Dr. Z Maz 38 SR, an amp popular with country and roots players. EL84 tubes, 38W, Alnico Blue speaker and G12H30
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #11, #15, #16, #20, #24, #25, #34, #55, #57
3. Original controls: Volume, Master, Bass, Middle, Treble, Cut (turn up for chime)
4. Original manual
5. Dr. Z website
6. Wikipedia
7. Amp settings database
8. YouTube clip 1 YouTube clip 2
9. Cliff: "It's a low output amp. Turn up the Master"
10. This amp has no negative feedback (Damping = 0), therefore Presence turns into a Hi-Cut control
11. Firmware 3.0: reworked model. Firmware 6.xx: re-matched model.

CA3+ Rhy / Lead (CAE 3+ SE)

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1. Based on: CAE 3+ SE, a preamp designed by the great Bob Bradshaw. Rhy = channel 2 (Rhythm). Ld = channel 3 (Lead)
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: n/a
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, post EQ (punch, presence), Bright switch for each channel
4. Original manual
5. CAE website
6. Cliff: "Channel 1 isn't modeled because it's very similar to a Fender Twin"
7. Enzo Sutera: "The Bogner Shiva lead channel is circuit wise somewhat close to the OD100. Try the Shiva LD model with the 3+SE tonestack and Damping at 1.50 for instant CAE gratification". Source

Wrecker 1 (Trainwreck Express)

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1. Based on: Trainwreck Express, designed and built by the late, great Ken Fischer. Often used with greenbacks or G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #57, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Bas, Mid, Treble, Presence, Bright switch, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. FAQ
6. Trainwreck website
7. Cliff: "The Trainwreck depends on power amp distortion. The OT has a high impedance which causes the power tubes to enter clipping early. I would not recommend using that model as preamp."
8. Firmware 3.0: added a second Trainwreck model: FAS Wreck
9. YouTube clip

Corncob M50 (Cornford MK50II)

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1. Based on: Cornford MK50II, a boutique British amp. Plexi-meets-Modern tone with big cojones. 50w, 6L6/5881, one channel. Used with V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #41, #47, #48, #51, #59, #62, #63, #65
3. Original controls: Volume, Gain, Bass, Middle (500Hz), Treble, Volume, Presence, Resonance
4. Original manual (and suggested settings)
5. Cornford website
6. The Standard/Ultra had a Cornford RK100 sim

Carol-Ann Od-2 (Carol-Ann OD-2r)

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1. Based on: the celebrated Carol-Ann OD-2r. Model was fine-tuned by the highly respected Alan Phillips himself! Overdrive channel, 50W, EL34 or 6L6 tubes. Used with EVM 12L or Celestion Classic Lead 80 speaker(s)
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #8, #12
3. Original controls: Master, Gain, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Bright switch (clean and overdrive channel), Shift switch
4. Original manual
5. Carol-Ann website
6. Alan Phillips: "In the real world the OD2 is very very fussy on speaker choice too. The real world speakers of choice are EVM12L in a 1x12 rear ported and 2x12 with Celestion Classic Lead 80's. I found the 12L emulation did a pretty good job. Some of the others sounded so artificial with that model. Like a Rockman. Coupled with the right cab the emulated model does a good job of representing the basic tonal signature of the amp". And: "It's not a competitive model, it's a live demo of an OD2 as tweaked by me. Damn sight better than sound clips for auditioning to guys that haven't got the ability to get to a Dealer. Clearly it doesn't give you the full experience of the full amp, but is a good tonal taster. I repaired a Soldano SLO for him one day and when he came over my house to pick it up we just decided it would be a good idea to put a CA model in there. Having the actual builder involved kind of closes the loop fully. I'm happy to endorse that model because I put a lot of hours testing it and putting together a ton of technical information, fourier analysis graphs, frequency response graphs, schematics etc that would make validation of a mathematical model much easier. In reality even though the power amp and the preamp are modelled the pre-amp got the most effort. As I said in another thread, I tuned that by putting the axe in to the actual power amp of an OD2 and running that side by side with a full OD2. The final tweaks were made like that using parametric eq blocks that were hard coded in to the model. You could call that the icing on the cake and basically put the same level of tuning into the model as I do with a actual OD2. The only difference was I was using a GUI, not resistors and capacitors."
7. It's a dark sounding amp

Fryette D60 L / M (Fryette Deliverance 60)

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1. Based on: Fryette Amplification Deliverance 60 in the "Less" resp. "More" mode. 60W, KT88 or 6550 tubes. Used with 12" Eminence P50E speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: ?
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Depth, More/Less switch
4. Original manual
5. Fryette website
6. Wikipedia

Brit Brown (Van Halen's Marshall)

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1. A faithful recreation of the pure, raw "Brown Sound" - The Modded “#1” Marshall. Used with greenback speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #36, #37, #38, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Bright cap
4. Marshall website
5. Wikipedia
6. Orignally named "Brown", renamed after addition of FAS Brown model
7. This model has the Saturation parameter engaged by default

Citrus RV50 (Orange Rockerverb)

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1. Based on: "dirty" channel of a 50W Orange Rockerverb head, known for warmth and rich harmonics. EL34 tubes. Used with V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #53
3. Original controls on dirty channel: Volume, Gain, Treble, Mid, Bass
4. Original manual
5. Orange website
6. Wikipedia

Jazz 120 (Roland JC-120)

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1. Based on: Roland JC-120, the only solid-state-based model in the collection; a quintessential clean tone. 120W (stereo: 2x 60W). Used with 2x12" Roland speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #27
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Mid, Treble, no Master
4. Original manual
5. Roland website
6. Wikipedia

Energyball (Engl Powerball)

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1. Based on: Engl Powerball, a very high-gain German model. Lots of bass. Great for aggressive, drop-tuned riff work. Lead channel, 100W, 6L6 tubes. Used with V30 (or custom V60) speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #47, #48, #64
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence, Depth, Bottom, Open/Focused mode, Bright switch for low gain channels only
4. Original manual
5. Engl website
6. Wikipedia

ODS-100 Clean / Lead (Dumble OD Special)

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1. Based on: Dumble OD Special, a coveted but rare amp made famous by Robben Ford. Clean: based on the Clean channel. Lead: the same amp, OD channel
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #8, #12, #56
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Master, Presence
4. Wikipedia
5. Cliff: "The ODS-100 model in 6.00 is matched to a Bludotone Ojai with Loopalator." Source
6. Scottl on The Gear Page: "The Ojai is an exact copy of Dumble #102. Robbens tan Dumble. It also requires the Dumbleator and specific capacitance cables to run to and from the Dumbleator (about 180-200pf per cable). This due to the large bright cap on the amp master. All controls are marked in silver sharpie for the exact settings of Robbens tone. The pot tapers are all 30% audio taper, except the treble control, presence, and the OD in/outs which are linear. Robben sets his mids at about 70K from ground. All my clips are recorded with the amp set both on the outside, and the trimmer on the inside, to be as close as possible to the Robben OD tone. One super important element is the correct setting of the internal gain trimmer that sets the amount of attenuation between V1 and V2. It should be between 25K and 26K to ground. Any more and you lose the clean OD sound in my clips. It gets more modern. Not a bad thing, but not the RF thing Source

FAS Rhythm

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1. Created by Fractal Audio Systems. Combines the best features of the British and USA crunch models
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: ...
3. Original controls: n/a

FAS Lead 1

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1. Created by Fractal Audio Systems. Neutral high-gain lead with a tight midrange. Presumedly based on the Mesa Boogie Triaxis
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: ...
3. Original controls: n/a

FAS Lead 2

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1. Created by Fractal Audio Systems. Hot-rodded British lead sound with a tonestack by the one and only Bob Bradshaw. Presumedly based on the Mesa Boogie Triaxis
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: ...
3. Original controls: n/a

FAS Modern

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1. Created by Fractal Audio Systems. A high-gain hybrid. Equally well-suited to modern rhythm and lead work.
2. Stock cabinet suggestion: ...
3. Original controls: n/a
4. Cliff: "Loosely based on a Recto but with tighter bass." Source

Das Metall (Diezel VH4)

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1. Based on: Diezel VH4, a high-gain, boutique amp famous for its powerful, heavy, aggressive sound. 4 channels, 6550 tubes (or EL34 or 6L6). Used with V30 or G12-K100 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #43, #44, #47, #48, #52, #54, #64
3. Original controls: Gain, Volume, Bass, Mid, Treble, Presence (4kHz), Deep (80Hz)
4. Original manual
5. Diezel website
6. Wikipedia

Brit Pre (Marshall JMP-1)

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1. Based on: Marshall JMP-1 preamp, a rack-mount preamplifier version of the Brit 900. OD2 channel. Crunchy “ZZ” tone
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see Brit 800
3. Original controls: Volume, Gain, Bass, Mid, Treble, Presence, Bass shift
4. Original manual
5. Marshall website
6. Wikipedia
7. Cliff: "I actually used a Marshall tone stack for the model. The JMP-1 is a bit of an odd duck. It has a switchable, fixed tone stack equivalent to the knobs at noon followed by active tone controls. My advice is to simply play around with the tone stack. Try the "Vintage" tone stack as that will simulate switching out the fixed tone stack." Source

Buttery (Budda Twinmaster)

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1. Based (loosely) on: Budda Twinmaster, a late 90s specimen. Relies mostly on power amp distortion. Often used with greenback or G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #34, #36, #37, #38, #57, #58, #60, #61
3. Original controls: Bass, Treble, Volume (no Master Volume), Bright cap on Volume (Bright switch)
4. Original manual
5. Budda website
6. Wikipedia
7. Cliff talking about the G1 model: "I did the Buttery model by ear. I listened to some clips of Buddas (Matchbox 20, remember them?) and tweaked the model until I thought it sounded like one. Screwed around a little with the tube bias points until it had the right balance of harmonics and called it a day"

Boutique 1 / 2 (Matchless Chieftain)

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1. Based on: Matchless Chieftain, a medium-gain amp, thick, yet crisp, with a fair amount of power amp breakup. Boutique 2: same amp with a boost for more gain and high-frequency emphasis. Used with G12M and G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #26, #30
3. Original controls: Volume, Master, Bass, Treble, Brilliance (HiCut)
4. Original manual
5. Wikipedia
6. Based on a Vox circuit
7. Turn up the Master, use Drive for volume and gain

Cameron Ch.1 / Ch.2 (Cameron CCV100)

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1. Based on: Cameron CCV100, what its creator Mark Cameron calls “one pissed off amp". Designed to be used with G12H speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #16, #34, #57
3. Original controls: ...
4. Improved in firmware 3.0
5. The Cameron Ch. 2 has the Saturation switch engaged by default
6. Try turning up Depth a little

SV Bass (Ampeg SVT)

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1. Based on: Ampeg SVT, a bass head used for decades by famous bassists the world over. Super Vacuum Tube bass amp, 300W. Used with 8x10" speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #68
3. Original controls: ...
4. Ampeg website

Tube Pre

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1. A completely neutral, low-gain tube pre useful for “warming up” various sources
2. Details: added in firmware 1.02
3. Stock cabinet suggestions: n/a
4. Original controls: n/a

FAS Brown

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1. The original BROWN model from the Axe-Fx Standard/Ultra
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see Brit Brown
3. Original controls: see Brit Brown
4. Added in firmware 1.05

FAS Big Hair

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1. Mids without mud. Revive the 80s metal scene (Spandex not included)
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: ...
3. Original controls: n/a
4. Added in firmware 1.05

Solo X99 Lead (Soldano X99)

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1. Based on: the lead channel of a Soldano/Caswell midi-motorized Soldano X99 preamp
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: n/a
3. Original controls: ...
4. Soldano website
5. Wikipedia

Supertweed

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1. Ported model from the Ultra

FAS Wreck

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1. The original WRECKER 1 model from the Axe-Fx Ultra
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see Wrecker
3. Original controls: see Wrecker
4. For authentic tone: see Wrecker
5. FAQ
6. Trainwreck website
7. Notes: see Wrecker
8. Added in firmware 3.0

TX Star Lead (Mesa Boogie Lone Star)

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1. Based on the lead channel of a Mesa Lone Star. 50/100 watt amp (later editions also feature lower wattages), two channels, 6L6 tubes (Classic) or EL84 (Special). Andy Timmons's main amp. Used with 12" C90 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #8, #12, #43, #44, #65
3. Original controls: Gain, Treble, Mid, Bass, Presence, Master, Resonance, Presence
4. Original manual with sample settings
5. Mesa website
6. Wikipedia
7. Added in firmware 3.0
8. YouTube video: Andy Timmons' Lone Star settings. Also try a BB preamp before the amp
9. Clif: "Tone stacks can have a lot of insertion loss and that particular one does. Moving it to any location other than the default will drastically reduce the volume. Don't move it" Source

Brit JVM OD1 / OD2 (Marshall JVM410)

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1. Based on the Marshall JVM 100-watt amp, OD1 and OD2 channels, Orange mode. Used with Celestion V30 and Celestion Heritage speakers (combo version)
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #34, #41, #43, #44, #47, #48, #51, #57, #62, #63
3. Original controls: Volume, Bass, Middle, Treble, Gain
4. Original manual
5. Marshall website
6. Marshall in Wikipedia
7. JVM forum
8. Added in firmware 3.03
9. Cliff: "IMO, the reason the JVM sounds good is the plate cap on the second-to-last triode. That smooths out the tone considerably. The second-to-last triode is associated with "Triode 1 Freq" in the advanced parameters. You can adjust this to simulate adding a cap to the plate. The other thing that helps the tone is the 220K plate resistor on the last triode. This shifts the bias point down vs. a "classic" Marshall. Unfortunately the bias points aren't exposed to the user." Source
10. Firmware 6 release notes: "There are now two “Brit JVM” models: Brit JVM OD1 and Brit JMV OD2. Both models are based on the “Orange” modes of the amplifier. The “Red” modes of the amplifier are equivalent to engaging the Boost switch (select Type and press Enter)."

FAS 6160 (Peavey 5150)

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1. Based on: Peavey EVH 5150, alternative version of PVH 6160 model, more open and less fizzy than the original amp. Also, a virtual choke has replaced the resistor found on the original’s power supply filter. This results in a bouncier feel. See PVH 6160
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: see PVH 6160
3. Original controls: see PVH 6160
4. Original manual
5. Peavey website
6. Wikipedia
7. Notes: see PVH 6160

Cali Leggy (Carvin Legacy VL100)

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1. Based on: Carvin Legacy VL100 (version 1), 100w, EL34, Celestion V30 speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #41, #43, #44, #47, #48, #51, #53, #59, #62
3. Original controls: Presence, Treble (11k Hz), Mid (650Hz), Bass (80Hz), Drive, Volume
4. Original manual
5. Carvin website
6. Added in firmware 5.02
7. Cliff: "The thing that makes a Legacy unique is the tone stack. It uses a "James" tone stack which is more like hi-fi tone controls. Source

USA Lead 1+ / Lead 2+ (Mesa Boogie Mark IV)

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1. See USA Lead 1/2 notes. The 1+/2+ models add the Mid Gain switch (firmware 6)

Prince Tone (Fender Princeton)

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1. Based on: Fender Princeton, 5F2-A circuit, a single-ended amp. 5W, Class A. Used with 10" Jensen or Oxford speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: #3, #32, #34
3. Original controls: Volume, Tone (treble)
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Fender website
6. Wikipedia
7. Added in firmware 3.0

Blanknshp Leeds (Blankenship Leeds)

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1. Based on: Blankenship Leeds which is a boutique version of an 18W Marshall. This particular amp is known for sounding “big” despite being relatively low power. Mercury Magnetics transformers. EL84. Two channels. 1x12 Greenback, Celestion V30 or 2x10" Jensen C10Q.
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: Vintage 30s
3. Original controls: Volume, Tone, no Master
4. For authentic tone: set Master to 9, use Drive for volume and gain
5. Cliff: "The model was matched to Dweezil's amp. He loaned it to me because it was one of his favorite amps and I can see why. It's a really cool amp." Source

5153 Green / Blue / Red (EVH 5150 III)

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1. Based on: EVH 5150 III, made in collaboration with Fender. Green, Blue and Red channels, 100w version, 6L6, 12" Celestion G12EVH speakers
2. Stock cabinet suggestions: G12M greenbacks or #49
3. Original controls: Gain, Bass, Mid, Treble, Volume, Presence
4. Specifications and website
5. Cliff: "IMO, it's a very good amp. The build-quality is great and the design is very good. It is similar to the previous versions but voiced a bit different. Personally, I think all of the 5150's have more gain stages than necessary which just makes for unnecessary failure points but the "OMG, this map has sooo many toobz it must sound awesome" marketing it understandable. It's incredibly heavy though." Source
6. Eddie's personal settings