Difference between revisions of "Fender Amp Tips"

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Different amps respond quite differently.  Here are some suggestions for working with different amplifier types.
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====Fenders Sims====
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=====Working with Fenders=====
 
 
Fender amps have a LOT of bass. The exception, as Jay noted, is the Bassman, which is what a Marshall is actually based on.  If you do a neutral boost into a Fender model you're going to get a flubby, loose, bottom (that doesn't sound quite right, but you know what I mean  )  I would recommend using a [[drive]] model like the TS808 or similar model that has a strong bass roll-off.  I'd also lower the '''DRIVE''' in the [[amp]] block. Most people run Fenders with the volume around 3-4. A value of 8 is going to be muddy since as you turn the drive up the "Bright cap" is being taken out of the circuit.  Fender's were designed to reach full rated power with the volume ('''DRIVE''' on the Axe-Fx amp models) at around "4".  
 
Fender amps have a LOT of bass. The exception, as Jay noted, is the Bassman, which is what a Marshall is actually based on.  If you do a neutral boost into a Fender model you're going to get a flubby, loose, bottom (that doesn't sound quite right, but you know what I mean  )  I would recommend using a [[drive]] model like the TS808 or similar model that has a strong bass roll-off.  I'd also lower the '''DRIVE''' in the [[amp]] block. Most people run Fenders with the volume around 3-4. A value of 8 is going to be muddy since as you turn the drive up the "Bright cap" is being taken out of the circuit.  Fender's were designed to reach full rated power with the volume ('''DRIVE''' on the Axe-Fx amp models) at around "4".  
  
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To get a clean sound - set the midrange, where present, to ~8 and bass and treble very low (1-3). This requires running the volume at a higher setting than 3-4 to get maximum power. It also defeats the operation of the bright cap, if it is not switchable. That is my intent. If it is switchable, then I turn the "Bright" switch off.
 
To get a clean sound - set the midrange, where present, to ~8 and bass and treble very low (1-3). This requires running the volume at a higher setting than 3-4 to get maximum power. It also defeats the operation of the bright cap, if it is not switchable. That is my intent. If it is switchable, then I turn the "Bright" switch off.
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=====Working with Mesa/Boogies=====
 
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In addition to the standard tone controls, the Mark IV featured a graphic EQ.  {{:Mesa/Boogie_graphic_equalizer}}
 
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=====Working with the Dr. Z Maz 38=====
 
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This is a class A amp like the AC30 and therefore the bias needs to be in the 6.5-7.5 zone to get the sparkling clean sounds you want.  But that's just a start.  A little bass goes a long way.  You may find you only need a setting of 3 or so (passive eq) on the bass knob.  Another eq trick is using a lot of presence but bringing the treble down a bit.  Usually I like to have the presence on 6.22 and the treble on 4.70.  Tweak the mids to your taste.  I like a little more mids so I put mine on about 6 or so.
 
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Just as in real life this amp loves to be pushed hard.  I like to put the master volume on 7 or 8.5.  Like the AC30 you want to push it hard but not too hard.  Since the amp has no drive you must use the drive as the regular volume.  Set this to taste.  For me I like it on 6 because that gets it into that "edge of breakup" sound.  The advanced parameters are important too.  Don't be afraid to use the lowcut if you need it.  The warmth an thump parameters can be set to taste but I usually put them between 1-2. 
 
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A good way to use this amp is to set it pretty clean and use a bunch of pedals for your other sounds.  It's a great amp for covering a lot of ground during a show without switching patches.
 
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Latest revision as of 18:59, 11 November 2009

Fenders Sims

Fender amps have a LOT of bass. The exception, as Jay noted, is the Bassman, which is what a Marshall is actually based on. If you do a neutral boost into a Fender model you're going to get a flubby, loose, bottom (that doesn't sound quite right, but you know what I mean ) I would recommend using a drive model like the TS808 or similar model that has a strong bass roll-off. I'd also lower the DRIVE in the amp block. Most people run Fenders with the volume around 3-4. A value of 8 is going to be muddy since as you turn the drive up the "Bright cap" is being taken out of the circuit. Fender's were designed to reach full rated power with the volume (DRIVE on the Axe-Fx amp models) at around "4".

The general idea when going for a distorted tone while using a Fender amp is to let the pedal do the distortion ("clean amp with pedals" paradigm). If you drive the amp the bass is going to get flubby.

To get a clean sound - set the midrange, where present, to ~8 and bass and treble very low (1-3). This requires running the volume at a higher setting than 3-4 to get maximum power. It also defeats the operation of the bright cap, if it is not switchable. That is my intent. If it is switchable, then I turn the "Bright" switch off.

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